Special Talent?

Special talent? I don’t have one. But maybe, surfing could be. Ok, I’m not a professional, but every opportunity that I have, I take it. Obviously in Santiago I can’t, but every time when I travel to the beach I go with my wetsuit into the water. It’s a funny thing, because no one knows that I love this sport. Just some of my closest friends or my family have an idea how important surf is to me.

Well, surf is a beautiful chance to connect with nature and with yourself. It’s true that is an extreme sport because is dangerous if you don’t have the cautions, but in almost every beach in Chile you can find smalls surf schools when you can take lessons and learn. Maybe it could be a little expensive, but I promise it’s worth it.

I do this since I was 14, but in a more ‘professional’ way since 2013 when I bought my own wetsuit.

My favorite beach to do it is in Pichilemu, because it has the perfect waves for everyone. If you are an expert you could go to Punta de Lobos beach, fifteen minutes from Pichilemu. All the time there are great competitions of surf. Actually, Chile is considered a wonderful country to surf for women and men.

I love surf because teach you about to be fearless and trust in yourself. When I ride a wave it’s the perfect moment in my life: all is quiet, blue and I can feel the water under my feet.

If I don’t tell to everyone, it’s because there a lot prejudices about this sport and the reasons are wrong. Surf is a sport very involved with protect our environment, there are many organizations that spend a lot of energy trying to save our beaches because every time people wants to privatize them.

I hope to do this all my life, even when I get old or have a job.